What is a travel agent worth? Not much apparently...

Today has been quite the eye-opener as a travel agent who specializes in Ireland and dispenses free advice without procuring a deposit on a vacation.

The story started a few weeks ago when I was contacted via email to help plan a trip for 4, two weeks total where they would be traveling Ireland and Scotland. Easy, I've done both and most people know I can talk about travel for hours on end whether it's on the phone or through email.

The questions were generic at first and I quickly answered each subsequent email quickly, thoroughly and honestly including how travel agents get paid, surcharges (none!) and costs.

Clue #1
Then things took a turn and I started to get worried about the time I had invested in this client... a member of the group received and email for a special and they wanted to see if I would offer them the same deal. This is typically a sign that clients are using us for planning their trip and have no intention of using our services but I stayed calm and asked that they forward the special along and I would try to match it if it was valid... after all I really do try to get my clients the best deal there is.

The deal was a 6-night Blarney Golf Resort Package for $599 per person, clearly not what they had explained to me about their trip via email. 5-nights at Blarney and a final night in Adare Manor is quite different than 14-nights traveling around Ireland, staying in different locations and exploring on your own. I explained this and they agreed that it was not what they wanted and I made sure they knew I had the same special listed on my website -- so yes, they could get if if they wanted to stay in the same location for 5 nights.

Clue #2
After not hearing from this potential small group, an email came through which detailed a verbose itinerary with lots of questions but not the outline of locations as I had previously requested. Unfortunately I find it easier to see a list of dates and locations to make suggestions, determine if they are spending too much time in one area or an area that I wouldn't suggest and I made the mistake of asking for this and stating that I have to be careful of how much information I divulge for free because potential clients have devoured my advice and then walked into a travel agency and booked the package to save $25.

The potential client was extremely agitated which was evident from the following email:

I'm getting a bit frustrated. I think i've done an awful lot of work here & i'm waiting for you to do some. At this point I could practically book it myself. As our flights are already booked we are hardly going to pull out.

In the last email I stated B&Bs, castles, cottages - locations & dates. What more do you want please?

Yes, this was the response to me asking for an outline of the verbose email and questions so I could at least get a price quote for the client to make sure we were in the right ballpark as far as rates.

Apparently my detailed emails about her itinerary, suggestions and information did not constitute work on my end. Apparently I had done nothing at all but wait, the verbose email didn't tell me anything about the types of accommodations they wanted -- B&Bs, hotels, etc. So I did need just a bit more... and I went through her email in detail, creating an outline of dates and locations, assuming B&Bs for accommodations and sent it back to show what I was looking for. I even asked that she call me on my 800 # so we could talk as email was losing something that we typically need to establish a relationship -- voice inflection and personal detail. These items get lost in email.

Final Straw
After talking on the phone for 90 minutes (my call to Canada of course), I did talk about the reasons why I said I needed to watch how much information I dispensed and discussed the clues above... having been proven over the past 10 years or so. She made no apologies on her end and we walked through her itinerary in detail, changing her from staying in Limerick to elsewhere, suggesting a more economical castle than a 5-star property, recommending a wonderful hotel in Doolin rather than trying to find a B&B, dropping the car off when in Dublin to save $$ and even the hidden costs in a cottage rental for a short period. The conversation had gone real well I though we were on the same page with tuning her itinerary and removed any doubt about the value of my services.

I worked up a quote quickly form our final email and sent it over... it "looked good" and she would discuss it with her group.

A new email came shortly after that my quote was $1200 more than what they had worked up but the note was so sweet:

:) And $1200+ for a 90 min phone call and some advice seems a little much. :)

I asked for a copy of the quote they had to make sure they were comparing apples-to-apples which is typically not the case. Someone has an economy car instead of a full-size or they chose automatic when I quoted a manual... and even better, they asked me for a B&B but booked a hotel.

What I received was an email back listing the charges they had worked up for each individual property, including my recommended hotel in Doolin but these rates are unsubstantiated -- anyone can make up an invoice and put numbers in order for me to go back to my suppliers to get better rates I need invoices and not a typed email.

I could see this coming and it's typically because someone can save $25 - $50 but $1200 is considerable -- but I cannot just take these numbers as true unless I see invoices.

In the end this person worked me, making me feel as though I wasn't helping her and that opened the door for me to divulge everything and make their trip perfect while they go elsewhere with my information.

It's one of those things where people want to book with Travelocity or Orbitz but they know they won't get the personal advice so they find someone experienced and pretend they're going to book with them... but all of a sudden then send the email... "Something came up and we can't make the trip this year" which means they've taken your work and gone elsewhere. Happens all the time.

Skellig Michael - Final Night in Glin Castle

Gene, my chauffeur driver, arranged reservations with Des Lavelle for a trip to Skellig Michael and I was told to ring at 8:30am to find out if the swells were small enough for our trip out to the island and they were – we were heading 8 miles into the ocean to climb 599 steps created by monks who lived out there, sheltered from the mainland to pray for our souls.

Driving from Waterville to Portmagee was about 30 minutes, 45 if you aren’t familiar with the roads or area and I asked for Des when I arrived at the docks 20 minutes prior to our departure. Des was quite friendly and got our names, checking us off the list as he is only licensed to take 12 passengers at a time. A few minutes later I was approached by a man who started the conversation with, “We’re not stalking you but… we saw you at the Bamboo Park yesterday.” When I took a look it was the American couple sitting at the other table in the tea room as we were discussing adoption with Claudine – and he acknowledged he could hear our conversation and congratulated us.
He introduced himself as Ed and told us he drove from below Bantry to try and catch the boat to Skellig Michael – I couldn’t even imagine driving from Bantry to make it on time, with no guarantee there was room. Another couple drove 1.45 hours from Dingle to get there and they did have a reservation while a couple from Paris drove a few hours from Kinsale! My clients will definitely be placing themselves in Waterville for the night rather than driving the distance without knowing the tour is going.

Des loaded up the boat, allowed Ed and his wife to join us as someone did not make the boat – and it was 10 minutes past 11:00am so they were definitely late… everyone is to be there 15 minutes prior to ensure their seat. Just as we pulled away someone was running down the dock trying to flag us down but it was too late, Ed was on the boat and we were heading out.

The ride was 1.25 hours into the ocean with the Skelligs getting larger with each minute. The water was calm with 5-foot swells rolling the boat slowly from side to side, relaxing in one sense but after an hour my head was rolling as well and I felt a bit uneasy. We took the long way around the smaller skellig and watched as the Gannets flew overhead and roosted on this massive rock, created a while cap as they pooped all over it (nice, eh?) In fact there was so much poop that you could smell it on the boat, making everyone wrinkle their noses until we got a nice ocean breeze the opposite direction.

Pulling up to Skellig Michael we had to dock next to another boat which was offloading supplies for the few who live there, including the lighthouse keeper and tour guides who live there for the tourist season. Des grabbed a rope in the front of the boat and pulled us closer but the swells had two boats moving in opposite directions as our passengers tried to jump from boat-to-boat – my heart was racing! I grabbed a rope from the back of the boat and tried with all of my might to get the rear of the boat closer when another guy finally helped. He jumped and it was my turn, no one holding the back of the boat as they began to separate and pitch with the waves… my heart was racing and I jumped as the boats separated, sure I would land in the water. Nope, I made it to the boat, grabbing another guy as I landed on both feet, legs quivering and hands visibly shaking. It took me a few minutes to capture my breath and calm down. How do folks do this in normal Irish weather… slipper, drizzling rain?

We began our hike around the island, noticing a helicopter pad – a nice option to go home but we know it’s for bringing in supplies or perhaps evacuating the inhabitants in bad weather. We finally reached the steps and began our ascent, passing groups of German tourists heading down to their waiting boat for the ride back.
It’s hard to describe the ascent other than slabs of rock stacked to form steps on a steep incline, no railings or rocks to hold onto. My first thought was knowing we had to come back down, staring down rather than at the steps in front of you but I quickly put that to the back of my head for when I actually had to do it.
We ascended with Scott and Sarah to the first landing and caught our breath, allowing groups of people to descend before we continued on. The next steps were much steeper and at one point we were on a foot path with a drop straight down on a steep incline and into the ocean – not great for those who are afraid of heights.
At the top we had the most stunning views of the other island as well as beehive huts created over 1,000 years ago by the monks, no mortar at all and rainproof. These huts were designed using flat stone laid at such a slight angle that rain fell away and not inside. Very basic were their homes but that was their life, devoted to God.

The descent was quiet as our boat was the last to arrive and the last to leave. We watched as the boats floated in the Atlantic until their scheduled departure time, pulling into port one-by-one and loading up with their original passengers. This left the island quiet as we carefully descended each step, stopping occasionally to get my footing and take a few dozen photos. No one was going to believe the weather let alone the amazing photos. I had to take as many as possible to capture the moment.

Back at the bottom we met Sarah, Scott, Ed and the couple from France and talked a while before our boat came. Yes, politics came up and we vented about the current climate and hoping for change, mainly that Obama is our next President.
The ride back wasn’t bad at all with a little wind hitting us in the face and definitely helping with the sea sickness. Bob and Ed talked about our adoption for quite some time before Ed noticed a whale breaching the waters. We all stared the same direction and it surfaced again, Ed guessing it was a pilot wale and Des confirming it based on the dorsal fin location. Free whale watching tour for us since it wasn’t planned!

We all parted ways, Bob and I heading to Glin for our last night in Glin Castle. It was about a 2.5 hour ride however driving out of the Ring of Kerry was quick due to new, larger roads and plenty of room. We slowed down between Killorglin and Tralee due to traffic and a maze of roads in Tralee to get us through to the other side.
We arrived at Glin around 7pm, late by our standards but it was a long and productive day, with Irish suntans to prove it! We pulled up to unload our luggage and within minutes two men were unloading our car and advising us to leave the keys, they would park it. A short registration and quick tour of the public sitting rooms we were off to our room, the East Room on the 3rd floor. It was large and included a king-size bed which was quite nice after a double bed in Butler Arms Hotel. The room was magnificent and the castle was intimate, more than I ever thought. In fact, we were staying in the Knight of Glin’s home – a descendent of the Fitzgeralds of Limerick since the 14th century. The rooms were magnificently decorated and I can see why my clients like this on our Haunted Castles tour though I haven’t seen a ghost yet myself.

Dinner was a fixed price of €60 per person which is quite reasonable for castles and the dining room is small, intimate and furnished with paintings of what I believe to be ancestors.

We grabbed a small table for two near the window and the menu had many choices for each course and I was looking for a change so I went with the pan seared scallops and traditional Irish pudding (blood sausage), apple and Calvados Sherbert, fillet of sole stuffed with crab meat with a classic hollandaise sauce – and topped with a mixed berry dessert and coffee. The meal was amazing and we both agreed that it was our favorite so far, barring Florence’s home cooking of course.

We met another couple, Donald and Phyllis Epstein and had a good conversation on politics with them before an Irish couple joined in, discussing both country’s financial problems. Before long it was off to bed as we had a fairly busy morning with a 1.5 hour drive to the airport, stopping at Adare along the way.

Saying Goodbye in Ballylickey -- Hello Ring of Kerry!

What a busy morning we have – Gene, my driver for my chauffeur tours is coming up from Glengarriff for breakfast so we can finally meet. We’ve talked numerous times over the phone but we’ve always missed each other during our visits to Ireland. Unfortunately business has been slow and I haven’t had any chauffeurs for him this year but a larger company in Kerry has only had one contract job for him as well so it’s slow all over.

When Florence returned from the bank we gave her another computer lesson, showing her how to upload photos and more email features … and we finally began our exit. It’s tough saying goodbye after a nice visit but I truly wanted to try and fit in Skellig Michael which was a day trip from the Ring of Kerry. We bought our painting but not before Florence ran into the studio and gave us a wonderful painting of her own, an oil painting of sun flowers which we had admired on previous visits. “This is for the baby!” and we both gave her a great big hug! She’ll be one of the baby’s best Aunts in the whole world, a French-speaking Aunt from Ireland.

Onward over the Caha Pass and through the Sheehy Mountains, my favorite views of Bantry Bay and the mountains and this was a gorgeous day so I had to stop again and add more photos. I have to replace the wrap on my car and I need a series of 3 photos to make a panorama on the back windows of the MINI Cooper – a perfect location to capture the grand vistas of Ireland.

We made a brief stop in Kenmare again, unable to resist the charm of the main street full of color bars, restaurants and B&Bs. We popped into a pub for a quick lunch, paying €8 for a toasted sandwich and chips – pretty steep but still on the low end for food these days. Stick with the pubs for the least expensive food!
Bob wanted to hit a few stores looking for lace wine bags to use as gifts for the upcoming holiday season but no one had them… the did make great gifts but we’ve been unable to find them the past year or two. In one of the sweater stores I was suckered into another Irish sweater – after having sold my previous ones on eBay for a steal! I opted for a thinner wool cardigan that is a bit more dressy and not so hot to wear but at $90 it was quite expensive, the big purchase of the trip!

Continuing on to the Ring of Kerry we passed through Sneem, full of tour buses having just come off the Ring and ready for a rest. The roads are quite a bit bigger in places and the Ring isn’t as picturesque as I had remembered… perhaps it’s because I’ve traveled more of the off-beaten Ireland that is untouched by tourism? I really have to advise folks against traveling this when I can as there are so many other natural landscapes that will move people to tears. In fact we were only by the water a very short bit before ending up in Waterville, our base for the night.

The Butler Arms Hotel is one of the “manor house hotels” I offer to folks on the Ring and the location is perfect, right in the middle of the drive. This 4-star property is very unassuming on the outside and on the inside I was a bit taken by the décor. I’m not sure why I was disappointed because the room was clean and sizable for a standard room, the public lounges, bars and restaurants were fine as well but something in me tells me that booking clients in this manor home would leave them a bit disappointed, mainly from expectation. I’ve stayed at Cahernane House and it’s absolutely stunning so comparing the two is like comparing an orange and a grapefruit – similar, but very different tastes.

We did have dinner at the hotel and the food was quite nice, a requirement for receiving a “manor home” distinction. Mind you the food was very expensive, expensive in Irish currency as well as the currency conversion. I want to say my small piece of organic Irish salmon was €24 which is about $35, a price I’m not accustomed to paying for salmon anywhere even if it is organic.

The Butler Arms Hotel does have character and is well situated for our needs and they offer two services which I’m eager to point out to clients, a pick-up service for trips to Skellig Michael as well as a picnic basket service for snacking while out there since there are no services or facilities on the island. As long as I advise clients that I would consider the hotel a 3-star property with good location, I think we’re all good.

Downtown Bantry and Glengarriff's Bamboo Park

Today was a bit boring for clients but it was relaxing for us, hanging out with Florence in Bantry for the morning, chatting over a cup of organic coffee and a homemade organic scone at Organico. Ireland is on the organic kick as well as the environmental wave – even ATM machines remind you to dispose of your receipt carefully (if you print one at all!) Time alone with Florence was great and we got to know her just a little bit better than the previous trips.

Back at home Florence decided not to join us at The Bamboo Park in Glengarriff, a bamboo garden set on 12 beautiful acres (when the sun is out!) and overlooking a small bay. Claudine, the owner, greeted us and knew exactly who we were as Florence rang up to let her know we were coming. Claudine gave us a map and quick overview of the gardens, the bamboo having been imported from France and adapting very well to the subtropical climate in Glengarriff. The gardens were gorgeous and we walked the perimeter, stopping to bask in the sun and enjoy the views of not only the gardens but the water as well.

Back to the entrance (not sure how we found it!) we stopped in to talk with Claudine a while, opting for a wonderful piece of homemade apple tarte with cream and a cup of coffee. At some point another American couple stopped in for the same as we talked to Claudine. At one point Claudine congratulated us on adopting – word travels fast in a small community and we were happy to share our experience. She asked quite a few questions and we were more than happy to answer them, knowing that our next visit to Ireland will probably be with baby.

Thanking her for the tour, conversation and wonderful tarte we decided to head back to see Raymond and Florence and help prepare dinner. The night was out usual except we decided to pick our next painting which we’ll post online soon. I think this is our 10th painting of Raymond’s that we’ve collected.

Baltimore and Sherkin Island Excursion

Today we set out for Baltimore, a small harbor town about 30 minutes from Bantry. Our goal was to stay local this trip, exploring the smaller towns and going off the beaten path. Bantry is a bit below where most Americans travel and we were immersing ourselves even further, giving ourselves a flavor of Ireland that even we have neglected to see.

Heading toward Skibbereen we took a smaller side-road toward Baltimore, hugging the water as we meandered through the countryside. After about 20 minutes we came across Casey’s of Baltimore, a property which I’ve sold before and now I could see the actual location – on the water and a good location but still a short drive to the actual harbor itself. It would be perfect for those looking to get away from the major towns but having to drive to the center of the harbor might be an issue if a few pints are involved.

We quickly found the harbor, parked on the curb like everyone else as the parking lots were full – knowing that they rarely tow but we could come back to a ticket.
Just as we arrived we saw a boat pull up and we inquired – it was the Sherkin Island Ferry, a place we were told we should visit due to its beauty. Although today is a bit overcast, we figured we’ll head out and explore a bit so we hopped on the ferry (€10pp) and began the short 10-minute journey to Sherkin.

Sherkin Island is known for the ruins of a friary and a church, the friary immediately seen as we landed. From there we decided to walk toward the hotels on the island in search of a bathroom but found them either closed or the bathrooms were locked behind the guest area. There was a group of people staying in the one hotel however they were all practicing Tai Chi in the main banquet room and later outside – probably not a good idea to interrupt them. Seeing a sign for a pottery gallery we started our walk and continued for at least a mile before seeing it was closed and the road ended… thankfully the scenery was gorgeous along the way with nothing but views of pastures, animals and water in the distance.

We made it back to the ferry and took it back to the mainland just as the sun began to burn through the clouds. It’s typical Irish weather in the sense that the mornings will always be cloudy and misty, wet and cool but if the sun can burn off the clouds you’ll have gorgeous skies.

Just at the top of the harbor is a small group of restaurants where we were able to sit outside and enjoy the weather, the people and the views of the harbor – boats going in and out, a group of scuba divers heading out and people milling about on this Sunday afternoon. We each ordered a pizza with fresh local cheeses and a side of chips (French fries – a requirement for all meals!) and when they arrived, our faces dropped! These pies were quite large and good value but way too much food for the two of us. Fortunately a couple from Cork City sat next to us and asked us how we were enjoying out pizza so Bob offered them a taste and they took us up on it! Mind you I’ve never seen someone do that but I liked it at the same time because our offer was genuine… why can’t people just take you up on an offer without feeling obligated? We actually cut up the rest of our pizzas and made them a nice plate which they thanked us for many times, eventually ordering a bottle of wine to enjoy the views and sunshine.

We took the southern route along to Schull and stopped for a bit before heading through Durrus where they make a fine hard Irish cheese and on to Ballylickey. We then made it back to Ballylickey dinner was being prepared, roasted duck and wine. We settled right in, telling the day’s story and sipping wine as we tried to help out when we were allowed.

Visiting Raymond Klee in Ballylickey

The weather has been extremely unusual for Ireland – sunny and warm! In fact I think I might be getting a slight tan as we sit outside with our friends Raymond and Florence.

Let’s see, we drove from Doolin to Ballylickey in about 4 hours and this is where distances versus time is quite deceiving. We were in Limerick around 11:00am south on the N20 which is a nice-sized motorway. The total distance to our turn-off was about 105km, maybe 60 miles and it took us about two hours. The motorway narrows through villages with traffic here and there. Once off the main road the traveling was even slower through winding mountain roads until we emerged into Ballylickey.
Raymond and Florence were in the kitchen when we arrived so we walked in, made ourselves at home and began the process of catching up on the past year.

Unfortunately Raymond has been diagnosed with Alzheimer’s and his memory is not what it used to be, though he did remember the two of us. My fear was having him wonder who we were and why we were staying in his house. He had none of that and within the hour Raymond was whisking us off to his studio to show us the works he’s completed and what he was working on now. In fact he painted a wonderful seascape which he allowed me to get on film!

Oh, wait… I had a woman, Judy, contact me through the Internet to find out more about a painting of Raymond’s that she purchased through a thrift store. We emailed quite a bit within two days, me receiving digital photos and a letter to bring to Ireland for Raymond. I decided to go one step further and get his reaction on video, knowing full well that he would give me a show for Judy and that he did. I began reading the letter and his eyes would open wide and he would give me one of his grins indicating the show was about to begin. Just as I came to the part asking about the name of the painting he paused, full-grin and slowly gave the name… “Oil” … “Painting” and that was the end of the letter and questions. Sorry Judy! That is when Raymond went back to his oil painting and the video taping continued.

Spa Day in Ballyvaughan, Exploring the Burren's Dolmens and Ring Forts

Tir Gan Ean is the perfect location for touring – the Cliffs of Moher are just a few minutes south, Doolin Pier offers ferries to the Aran Islands or cruises to the Cliffs of Moher and Ballyvaughan is just 30 minutes but car.

We had a 10:00am massage at the Burren Coast Hotel’s Halcyon Spa, a non-descript spa from the outside but a leader in the holistic realm of health, offering everything from massages to facials and everything in between. The relaxation room consists of four leather lounges to sit back while waiting for your therapist to whisk you away to a quiet, candle-filled therapy room. After an hour of a Swedish massage you have the option of relaxing in the steam room, sauna or sit in one of the two heated-tile loungers before heading to a true rain shower… 40 seconds of misty rain before the sky opens up to shower you with dozens of rain droplets falling from above. While only four weeks old, this spa is designed to cater not only to the location population but also travelers alike with their 4-star accommodations adjoined in the Burren Coast Hotel. This property will soon be placed on my moderate spa package for those looking for a luxurious vacation getaway without the cost of a 5-star property.

After our massages we decided to seek out the Burren Perfumery which was quite further into the Burren than originally anticipated. Down side roads and small one-car lanes we found our destination, watched a short 10-minute overview of the region and went right to the gift shop where we bought a few items for friends. All products are natural with no oil-derivatives and never tested on animals, ensuring quality and good karma for all that purchase here – though it’s expensive when the dollar is down against the euro. There is a small café offering soup, sandwiches, tea/coffee and sweets for a quick bite to eat.

On our way out we stopped at Poulnabrone, the megalithic burial tomb a few kilometers away. Excavated in 1986, 33 people were recovered dating back to 3,800 B.C., a magnificent tomb to witness.

Further down the road was Caherconnell, a round stone fort where they just excavated a burial tomb a few weeks prior (September 6, 2008) and found remains. Admission is just 5 euro for the fort however the gift shop and cafeteria are free to enter.
Back toward Lisdoonvarna we decided to skip the Matchmaking Festival after hearing about the drunken melee from the previous night. Instead we stopped at the Burren Smokehouse and were a bit disappointed at the presentation but thrilled to find caramel waffle cookies, great Irish cheeses and some crackers for what we planned to be a nice quiet evening at the hotel.

Rather than the quiet evening I suggested we head to O’Connor’s Pub near the pier to have a pint and enjoy some music but just as we arrived a bus was letting out dozens of people, locals from Lisdoonvarna and Limerick! Tourists tend to be more mellow and subdued but locals are more bold and brazen, drinking quite a bit more and being a bit louder than most. We sat at the bar drinking for about two hours, enjoy the locals and the dueling groups of musicians in two different rooms competing for attention. One more traditional and the other more progressive, with a rendition of The Rose capturing the audience after many people “Shhhhh”-ing to get the room quiet. It was fun, but not as much fun as if it were later in the night and a few more pints were finished – it was only 5pm and the buzz wasn’t strong enough to deal with the drunken melee that was going on.

Back to Tir Gan Ean for dinner, which never disappoints and off to bed – at 8:18 it was a good 12 hour day from beginning to end. Jet-lag should be gone by tomorrow when we head off to see Raymond and Florence in Bantry, County Cork.