Baltimore and Sherkin Island Excursion

Today we set out for Baltimore, a small harbor town about 30 minutes from Bantry. Our goal was to stay local this trip, exploring the smaller towns and going off the beaten path. Bantry is a bit below where most Americans travel and we were immersing ourselves even further, giving ourselves a flavor of Ireland that even we have neglected to see.

Heading toward Skibbereen we took a smaller side-road toward Baltimore, hugging the water as we meandered through the countryside. After about 20 minutes we came across Casey’s of Baltimore, a property which I’ve sold before and now I could see the actual location – on the water and a good location but still a short drive to the actual harbor itself. It would be perfect for those looking to get away from the major towns but having to drive to the center of the harbor might be an issue if a few pints are involved.

We quickly found the harbor, parked on the curb like everyone else as the parking lots were full – knowing that they rarely tow but we could come back to a ticket.
Just as we arrived we saw a boat pull up and we inquired – it was the Sherkin Island Ferry, a place we were told we should visit due to its beauty. Although today is a bit overcast, we figured we’ll head out and explore a bit so we hopped on the ferry (€10pp) and began the short 10-minute journey to Sherkin.

Sherkin Island is known for the ruins of a friary and a church, the friary immediately seen as we landed. From there we decided to walk toward the hotels on the island in search of a bathroom but found them either closed or the bathrooms were locked behind the guest area. There was a group of people staying in the one hotel however they were all practicing Tai Chi in the main banquet room and later outside – probably not a good idea to interrupt them. Seeing a sign for a pottery gallery we started our walk and continued for at least a mile before seeing it was closed and the road ended… thankfully the scenery was gorgeous along the way with nothing but views of pastures, animals and water in the distance.

We made it back to the ferry and took it back to the mainland just as the sun began to burn through the clouds. It’s typical Irish weather in the sense that the mornings will always be cloudy and misty, wet and cool but if the sun can burn off the clouds you’ll have gorgeous skies.

Just at the top of the harbor is a small group of restaurants where we were able to sit outside and enjoy the weather, the people and the views of the harbor – boats going in and out, a group of scuba divers heading out and people milling about on this Sunday afternoon. We each ordered a pizza with fresh local cheeses and a side of chips (French fries – a requirement for all meals!) and when they arrived, our faces dropped! These pies were quite large and good value but way too much food for the two of us. Fortunately a couple from Cork City sat next to us and asked us how we were enjoying out pizza so Bob offered them a taste and they took us up on it! Mind you I’ve never seen someone do that but I liked it at the same time because our offer was genuine… why can’t people just take you up on an offer without feeling obligated? We actually cut up the rest of our pizzas and made them a nice plate which they thanked us for many times, eventually ordering a bottle of wine to enjoy the views and sunshine.

We took the southern route along to Schull and stopped for a bit before heading through Durrus where they make a fine hard Irish cheese and on to Ballylickey. We then made it back to Ballylickey dinner was being prepared, roasted duck and wine. We settled right in, telling the day’s story and sipping wine as we tried to help out when we were allowed.